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The increased sales have also led to an increase in the number of associated trades and such as , leather craftsmen, and potters. Of these types, the crocus finish is the choice of the discriminating barber. During this period, the straight edge scene birthed two major offshoots: the more and the religiously influenced.

If the blade digs into your thumbnail, with a smooth, steady grip, your blade is sufficiently sharp and is ready for stropping. Construction plays a vital role, along with some other factors. Archived from on 2011-12-27. Medico of Days: Two Decades of Punk in the Nation's Capital. I don't mind the smoking. In 2000, they released to fair record sales. Cambridge University Press, 2010. Beard Prep For a comfortable, close shave, a little preparation before putting blade to face goes a long way. The limbo of natural glycerin and coconut oil delivers a slickness that keeps the skin taut, providing the steadiest of strokes.

We are here to insure you continue to use your razor for as long as you live! Like we said our goal is to make you happy and without you there would be no Classic Edge! Huntsman's process was adopted by the French sometime later; albeit reluctantly at first due to nationalist sentiments.

Select Your Currency - Straight razor sales are increasing globally and manufacturers have difficulty satisfying demand. During the era, which started in the mid-1980s, the influence of music on the straight edge scene was at an all-time high.

Our very first post on the Art of Manliness was a introductory guide to with a double-edged safety razor. Benefits of Straight Razor Shaving Better shaves. So make the switch to a straight razor. Your face will thank you for it. The upfront costs to get started with straight razor shaving are a bit on the expensive side. Shaving with a safety razor reduces this waste, but straight razors take it one step further. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it, greenies. Straight razor shaving has meditative benefits. After a few times of shaving with a straight razor, you just might start to notice yourself entering an incredibly manly zen-like state. The Tools The Razor. Your most important tool is your razor. They will irritate your skin and cause nicks and cuts that will annoy you as long as you use it. A good quality razor, on the other hand, is a joy to use. If well maintained, a good razor will last for years. Your great-grandsons might even use it. You can purchase straight razors either new or used. You can find used straight razors on ebay and antique stores. Used razors will likely have imperfections in the blade that will require professional honing. A professional blade restoration will set you back about 30 bones, but it will save you from cutting the crap out of your face. A razor with good temper sharpens better than poorer quality steels. One way to check if you have a well tempered blade is to catch the point of the blade under your thumbnail and let it slip off quickly. Hollowing places a concave on each side of the blade that makes the razor lighter, sharper, and easier to handle. You can purchase blades with varying degrees of hollowing. When such an edge comes in contact with a stiff beard, unless you hold the blade very flat on the face, it is quite likely to bend and spring, resulting in a cut. Blades come in either rounded or sharp points. Sharp points have a tendency to nick and cut, so go with a rounded point. Suggested Razors The Hone. When a razor becomes dull, these teeth are irregular and point in different directions. Honing a blade restores these teeth to their original condition. We need a quality hone with finer grit to get that sharp clean edge that will make shaving comfortable. Suggested Hones If you want to find a ceramic barber hone, look on eBay. A blade taken directly from a hone is left rough and unfit to put on the face. Stropping your blade smooths the rough edges off your blade and sets those teeth in perfect alignment. This gives your straight razor that keen edge that makes shaving a breeze. The most common strop is the hanging strop. Hanging strops consist of two parts: one canvas strip and one leather strip. Cheaper models use coarse canvas and leather. Unless you want to ruin your razor, you should never put it to such a sub-par strop. Suggested Strops Company is owned by a guy named Tony who makes strops as a side business. His strops come highly recommended. A brush helps hydrate the shaving cream in order to form a thick and rich shaving lather. Using a brush to lather up helps get the shaving cream up under each whisker which results in better, smoother shaves. Plus, it just feels nice on your face to lather up with a brush. Brushes are made of either boar or badger hair. Boar hair brushes costs less, but they hold less moisture and consequently create a poor lather. Badger hair brushes cost more, but they produce a better lather. You can pick up a nice badger brush at any Crabtree and Evelyn or Art of Shaving. Suggested Brushes Shaving Cream or Soap. You commit shaving sacrilege when you use a straight razor with the mass-produced chemical goop that gets passed off as shaving cream. Invest in some quality shaving creams and soaps. They may cost more than the crap you buy in a can, but natural shaving creams and soaps nourish your face and make you feel absolutely manly. Suggested Creams and Soaps How to Hone a Straight Razor Honing a razor intimidates many men. This quick guide will show you how. Wipe the stone clean 2. Water, oil, or even a bit of shaving lather can work. The lubricant serves two purposes. First, it prevents the blade from heating up as you scrape it across the stone. If the blade gets too hot, you can actually cause some warping in the metal which will ruin the blade. Second, lubricant clears off any steel and stone particles that are created during honing. You need a clear surface to get the job done right. Lay the stone on a flat surface with the coarser side up. Place the razor perfectly flat on the hone so the spine and edge touch the stone. Hold the razor by the shank and start sharpening. Draw the blade from heel to point, forward against the edge, and with moderate pressure. Without lifting the blade from the stone, turn the edge up, so that the razor rests on the back of the blade. Draw the blade from heel to point, towards you. Again, apply moderate pressure. Diagram of proper honing 8. Continue honing until the blade is sufficiently sharp. A quick way to determine whether a blade is sharp enough is to draw the edge from heel to point very lightly, across a moistened thumbnail. If the blade digs into your thumbnail, with a smooth, steady grip, your blade is sufficiently sharp and is ready for stropping. A blunt razor will pass over the nail smoothly. An over-honed razor will stick into your nail and produce a harsh, disagreeable feeling. If your razor is in really bad shape, send it to a professional cutler to have it properly ground. Most good blades can go 6 to 8 weeks between honings. How to Strop a Straight Razor To get the most comfortable and effective shave, strop your straight razor every time you shave. Hang your strop from your bathroom drawer using the hook on one end of the strop. Between shaves, start off with the canvas side before using the leather. Hold the razor by its shank in your right hand and place it flat on the strop on the end farthest from you. Draw the blade towards you again with edge pointing away from you , always keeping the heel of the razor in advance of the point of the razor. Draw the blade away from you, keeping the heel in advance of the point. For the beginner, we suggest this basic grip: Rest the first three fingers on the back of the blade. Place your thumb on the side of the blade near the middle. This grip gives you nice control of the razor. You may have to adjust it when you shave different parts of your face, like your upper lip or your jaw. For more examples of how you can hold a razor, check out the. Everyone has their personal preference when it comes to the technique they use with a straight razor. Below we provide a suggested way to shave. If a particular way to shave with a straight razor works for you, then do it. Beard Prep For a comfortable, close shave, a little preparation before putting blade to face goes a long way. Soft whiskers cut more easily than dry whiskers. The heat and water combination softens your beard and makes it ready for shaving. You can replicate the barbershop experience by soaking a towel in hot water, wringing it out, and placing it on your face for a few minutes. Lather Up Place a nickel-sized dollop of shaving cream into your mug. Soak your brush in hot water. Flick excess water off the brush. The more you rub the brush on the cream, the thicker the lather. Apply the lather to your face with your brush in swirling motions. Ensure that lather gets up under every single whisker. The Shave Stroke Begin with slow, even strokes and shave in the direction of your beard growth. Shaving against the grain can cause ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Hold the blade at a 30-degree angle. Also, apply very little pressure when you shave. Let the razor do the work! Pressing down on the razor will only cause cuts. Shave the Right Side of Your Face Start off by shaving the right side of your face. Reach over your head with your left hand and draw the skin upward with your fingers, thus making a smooth shaving surface. Shave downward until you clear about half the right cheek. Slide the left hand down further until the fingers rest in the middle of the cheek. Pull the skin upward. Continue shaving downward until you shave the entire right side of the face. Shave the Right Side Under Your Jaw After shaving the right cheek, move on to the right jaw. Tilt your head back and to the left, exposing the skin under your right jaw. With the fingers of your left hand, draw the skin tight under the jaw. Shave downward if the beard grows in that direction. Shave the Left Side of Your Face Many right handed shavers switch hands to shave the left side of their face. So I continue using my right hand to shave. Place the fingers of your left hand in front of and just above the ear. Pull upward on the skin so as to draw the skin taut. With the razor in your right hand, toe pointing upward, reach across the face, and shave downward. Walk your left fingers down as you get to the lower part of the cheek and chin. Keep pulling the skin taut. Shave the Left Side Under the Jaw Tilt your head back and to the right, exposing the skin under your left jaw. Pull the skin downward with your left hand and shave with the grain. Shave the Upper Lip Draw the upper lip down as much as possible to tighten skin. Shaving the Chin Draw your lower lip up as much as possible. This will pull the skin tight, making it easier to shave the whiskers underneath your lip and on your chin. Shaving Under the Chin Throw your head back and elevate the chin. With your left fingers, draw skin downward. Take extra care as you shave. The skin under the neck is much more sensitive and prone to cutting. Important Note: Always wear a sweet vest when shaving with a straight razor. This greatly improves the quality of your shaves. Should I do multiple passes? For the beginner, I recommend just going over your face again with a downward stroke. Shaving across and against the grain increases the chances of cutting yourself. After you gain some experience with your straight razor, you can try adding an across the grain and against the grain pass. An across-the-grain pass is when you shave in the direction perpendicular to that which the beard grows. Shaving against the grain involves shaving against the direction your beard grows. Before each pass, wash your face off and re-lather. Post-Shave Rinse your face off with cool water. Splash a manly smelling aftershave on your face. Witch hazel and bay rum are nice. Aftershave helps and leaves your skin looking healthy. Follow by applying a small quantity of talcum powder to your face. Cuts happen to even the best barbers. Just keep at it. You can stop most minor cuts and nicks by simply pressing the cut together while adding pressure. Luckily, there is a way to very cheaply dip your toes into the straight razor waters. Pick up a disposable straight razor from a beauty supply store or elsewhere. Just throw it away when the blade dulls. Listen to my podcast with Mark Herro about all things shaving: Further Reading As I mentioned at the beginning, this post is just a beginners guide to straight razor shaving. Hopefully, we provided you with enough info to help you get started with this glorious man ritual. People have written gobs and gobs about straight razor shaving. Below I include a list of must read sites on straight razor shaving. These sites will fill you in on more details:. This site has it all. An active, supportive , an awesome , , and an epic straight razor shaving how to video. Not only do they sell straight razor gear, they also have how to articles on the subject. Sources: Shaving Made Easy; What the man who shaves ought to know, 1905. The Practice and Science of Standard Barbering, 1951.